Apsara Gurung

With the word of the garment literally meaning “a thing to wear”, kimonos are dominating the SS16 fashion scene where major fashion houses such as Maison Margiela and High Street bands such as H&M are producing their own versions of the oriental robe.

 

Originating from Japan, kimono is the nation’s traditional clothing that has been worn since the 5th century with the original consumers being the Samurais. It is a straight lined, T- shaped robe that draped across the body with wide sleeves and an attached collar mainly made out of silk, silk crepe or statin weaves while boasting intricate designs on the fabric. The artisans treated the Kimono as a canvas where they illustrated different landscapes and motifs that not only were symbolic but also depicted poems and stories that catered to the owner.

 

Embroidery was prevalent when it came to decorating; silk threads were used to create almost three-dimensional imagery along with the use of gold and silver threads that were ‘couched’. This meant the individual strand of thread would be laid onto the fabric before stitched down with fine silk threads since the metallic threads were too thick to sew with. The colour of the garment was targeted via age groups where the younger consumers Kimono were brighter and more vibrant whereas the older consumers Kimono was more soft and subdued. Due to the personalisation of the designs, they were often representative as a sign of wealth and status, which led to many aristocratic women holding contests amongst each other, comparing their quality and craftsmanship.

 

The kimono has also travelled to the West and influenced designers such as Paul Poiret who created apparel for women that were looser fitting with softer silhouettes that trended amongst the masses during the 20th century. This meant that the use of corsets was no longer required as womenswear were now focusing more on practicality and comfort with the prevalent use of vivid colours and exotic fabrics from the far East.

 

Since then, kimonos have been modernised for the contemporary audience of the 21st century as it is now worn in replacement of a cardigan or a jacket. It has remained a vital piece for the summer wardrobe with an abundance of different versions available for every occasion. An assortment of materials is now utilised to make kimonos such as lace, viscose and cotton with the optional addition of further detail such as fringing, prints, mirror and bead work.

Many designers keep re-introducing the classic silhouette of the garment due to its versatility and this year is no different. “Modern Geishas” with a futuristic twist paraded Maison Margiela’s SS16 runway with dusky rose velvet coats reminiscent of a kimono with sleeves cut off at the wrist and a complimentary royal blue cord tied across the bust. Long, electric blue latex skirt with floral motifs along the hemline gave a contemporary feel whilst maintaining the sleek silhouette.

Kenzo’s SS16 collection included fiery red kimono inspired woollen coat with a subtle colour blocking around the lapels and an added waist belt playing the role of the traditional obi belt. A bold kimono-like top of a mixed cotton blend, buzzing to life with the clash of houndstooth and tribal prints with an underlying theme of colour blocking was also spotted.

 

In contrast to this, some designers took a more subtle route to kimonos such as Givenchy for their SS16 ensemble where they utilised soft, flowy kimonos made out of satin in black or ivory that amplified the gothic, romantic feel in the runway. Due to the immense popularity of the clothing, high street brands such as Zara and COS have their own recreation of the widespread trend for cheaper alternatives. Not only is the statement piece popular on the runway but also a favourite in the festival scene where individuals and celebrities channel their inner flower child and with such high profile celebrities such as Rihanna and Beyoncé sporting the beloved Kimono, this trend is less than likely to disappear anytime soon.